Brutti Ma Buoni: The Enchanting Flourless, Butterless Italian Hazelnut Cookies

There are some cookies that, at first glance, might seem a little rough around the edges, perhaps even a bit unrefined. But just like a perfectly aged Parmigiano-Reggiano or a rustic loaf of artisanal bread, their true beauty lies not in polished perfection, but in their honest, unadorned character and, most importantly, their unforgettable flavor. My first encounter with “Brutti Ma Buoni,” or “ugly but good” in Italian, was during a bustling food market in Piedmont, where the aroma of roasted nuts hung heavy in the air. These humble-looking mounds, scattered amongst more elaborate pastries, drew me in with their promise of pure hazelnut intensity, and they absolutely delivered.

This recipe, a stripped-down marvel, embraces the essence of its core ingredients, offering a delightful chewiness and an explosion of toasted hazelnut flavor that will have you reaching for more, despite their unassuming appearance. Adapted from a lighter approach, this version truly shines in its simplicity, proving that the most profound culinary experiences often come from the most straightforward preparations.

Recipe Overview

• Prep Time: 15 minutes
• Cook Time: 5-7 minutes per batch
• Total Time: Approximately 30-40 minutes (including baking and cooling time across batches)
• Servings: 40-50 cookies
• Yield: 40-50 cookies
• Dietary Type: Gluten-Free, Dairy-Free

Ingredients

The beauty of Brutti Ma Buoni lies in its minimalist approach, allowing the inherent flavors of the ingredients to take center stage.

• 1 cup toasted hazelnuts
• ½ cup granulated sugar
• 2 large egg whites
• 1 pinch salt
• ½ teaspoon vanilla extract
• Sliced hazelnuts (optional, for garnish)

Ingredient Notes:

• Toasting Hazelnuts: This is a crucial step for developing deep flavor. You can toast them in a dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant and lightly browned, or spread them on a baking sheet and toast in a 350°F (175°C) oven for 8-10 minutes, shaking the pan halfway through. Let them cool slightly, then rub them in a clean kitchen towel to remove as much of the skins as possible. It’s okay if a few skins remain.
• Egg Whites: Ensure your egg whites are at room temperature for optimal volume when whipping.

Equipment Needed

• Food processor
• Large mixing bowl (for egg whites)
• Electric mixer (handheld or stand mixer)
• Silicone spatula
• Disposable piping bag (or a sturdy plastic bag with a corner snipped off)
• Baking sheets
• Silpat baking mats or parchment paper
• Wire cooling rack

Instructions

This recipe is remarkably straightforward, focusing on a few key techniques to achieve the perfect Brutti Ma Buoni.

1. Preheat and Prepare: Preheat your oven to 325°F (160°C). Line two baking sheets with Silpat baking mats or parchment paper. This will prevent sticking and make for easy cleanup.

2. Grind the Nuts and Sugar: In a food processor, combine the toasted hazelnuts and granulated sugar. Pulse the mixture until the nuts are finely ground. You’re aiming for a texture similar to coarse sand, with some smaller nut pieces still visible. Avoid over-processing into a paste. Scrape this nut and sugar mixture into a large bowl.

3. Whip the Egg Whites: In a separate, impeccably clean large bowl, add the egg whites and salt. Using an electric mixer on medium-high speed, beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form. This means that when you lift the beaters out, the egg whites will stand up straight and hold their shape, with no drooping.

4. Combine Wet and Dry: Using a silicone spatula, gently fold about one-third of the whipped egg whites into the nut mixture. This helps to lighten the nut mixture and make it easier to incorporate the remaining egg whites. Once partially combined, add the remaining egg whites and the vanilla extract to the bowl. Gently but thoroughly mix until everything is just combined. Be careful not to overmix, which can deflate the egg whites.

5. Pipe the Cookies: Transfer the cookie batter to a disposable piping bag. Snip off the tip of the bag to create an opening about ½ inch in diameter. Pipe the batter onto the prepared baking sheets, creating mounds that are under 1 inch in diameter. Ensure you maintain a fingers-distance between each cookie, as they will spread slightly.

6. Create a Flat Base: Tap the baking sheet firmly on the counter a few times. This ingenious step helps to spread the cookies slightly, creating a flatter base and a more desirable texture with a good snap.

7. Garnish (Optional): If using, sprinkle the piped cookie batter with a few sliced hazelnuts for an extra textural and visual element.

8. Bake the Cookies: Place one baking sheet in the centre of the oven. Bake for 5-7 minutes, or until the cookies are golden brown. Switch the pans (top to bottom, front to back) and continue baking for another 5-7 minutes, or until the second batch is golden brown. Keep a close eye on them; the cookies are small and can go from perfectly golden to burnt very quickly.

9. Cool the Cookies: Once baked, let the cookies cool on the baking sheets for 5 minutes. This allows them to set slightly. Gently transfer the butterless cookies to a wire rack to cool completely. They will crisp up further as they cool.

10. Store: Once fully cooled, store the cookies in an airtight container. They will remain delightful for up to a week. However, I suspect they won’t last that long!

Expert Tips & Tricks

• Achieving the Perfect Texture: The key to the “buoni” in “Brutti Ma Buoni” is the balance of crisp exterior and a slightly chewy interior. Don’t overbake them; they should be lightly golden, not deeply browned. The gentle tapping of the baking sheet also plays a role in creating that desired texture.
• Uniformity for Even Baking: While these are “ugly but good,” striving for uniform cookie size when piping will ensure they bake evenly. Smaller cookies will bake faster, so keep that in mind.
• Humidity is the Enemy: Like many meringue-based cookies, Brutti Ma Buoni are susceptible to humidity. If it’s a very humid day, you might find they don’t crisp up as well. Store them in a truly airtight container.
• Toasting is Non-Negotiable: Don’t skip the toasting step for the hazelnuts. It’s what transforms them from ordinary nuts into flavor powerhouses that define these cookies.

Serving & Storage Suggestions

These cookies are a delightful standalone treat, perfect with a strong espresso or a glass of Vin Santo. Their delicate crunch and rich hazelnut flavor make them an ideal accompaniment to coffee or tea. They also make a wonderful addition to a dessert platter, offering a gluten-free and dairy-free option that doesn’t compromise on taste.

For storage, ensure the cookies are completely cool before placing them in an airtight container. They will keep well at room temperature for up to a week. Avoid storing them in humid environments or with other moisture-sensitive baked goods. If they do lose some of their crispness over time, you can briefly refresh them in a low oven (around 250°F/120°C) for a few minutes.

Nutritional Information

Nutrient	Amount per Serving (approximate)	% Daily Value
Calories	32 kcal	–
Total Fat	2 g	3%
Saturated Fat	0.1 g	0%
Cholesterol	0 mg	0%
Sodium	7 mg	0%
Total Carbohydrate	3 g	1%
Dietary Fiber	0.3 g	1%
Sugars	3 g	6%
Protein	1 g	2%

Nutritional information is an estimate and can vary based on specific ingredients used.

Variations & Substitutions

While the classic Brutti Ma Buoni celebrates hazelnuts, there’s room for creativity:

• Nut Variations: Swap hazelnuts for toasted almonds, toasted walnuts, or a mix of nuts for a different flavor profile. Ensure they are finely ground.
• Citrus Zest: For a brighter note, add the zest of ½ a lemon or orange to the nut and sugar mixture.
• Chocolate Drizzle: Once completely cooled, a drizzle of melted dark chocolate can elevate these cookies for a more decadent treat.

FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

Q: Why are these cookies called “Brutti Ma Buoni”?
A: “Brutti Ma Buoni” translates from Italian to “ugly but good.” They are named this because their appearance is rather rustic and imperfect, but their taste is exceptionally delicious.

Q: Can I use whole hazelnuts and grind them myself?
A: Yes, absolutely! Toasting whole hazelnuts and then grinding them yourself will yield the best flavor. Just be sure to toast and rub off as much of the skin as possible for the cleanest flavor.

Q: How do I know when the cookies are done baking?
A: The cookies are ready when they are lightly golden brown on the edges and the tops look set, not wet. They will firm up as they cool.

Q: Can I make these cookies without a food processor?
A: While a food processor is ideal for finely grinding the nuts, you could finely chop them by hand and then mix them with the sugar. The texture might be slightly coarser.

Q: How should I store Brutti Ma Buoni to keep them crisp?
A: Store completely cooled cookies in a truly airtight container at room temperature. Adding a small food-safe silica gel packet can also help absorb any residual moisture.

Final Thoughts

These flourless, butterless Italian hazelnut cookies are a testament to the power of simple, quality ingredients. They embody the spirit of true Italian baking – rustic, flavorful, and utterly irresistible. The next time you crave a cookie that’s both satisfyingly nutty and elegantly unfussy, reach for this recipe. The effort is minimal, but the reward is a cascade of flavor that will have you exclaiming “Buonissimo!” after every bite. Enjoy the delightful imperfection!