Kurdish Lamb & Eggplant Stew With Sumac (Meftuna Bacanan)

The vibrant crimson hue of sumac has always held a certain mystique for me. It’s an ingredient that whispers of sun-drenched landscapes and ancient culinary traditions. I remember the first time I truly encountered it, not just as a dusty spice on a shelf, but as a key player in a dish that spoke of history and home. It was a serendipitous discovery online, a recipe from The Guardian that promised something extraordinary. The instructions mentioned cooking the lamb in batches, a technique that piqued my chef’s curiosity, and the promise of a delicious, deeply flavored stew. That day, a jar of sumac transformed from a mere purchase into the catalyst for a culinary adventure, culminating in this utterly unforgettable Meftuna Bacanan.

Recipe Overview

• Prep Time: 30 minutes
• Cook Time: 1 hour 15 minutes
• Total Time: 1 hour 45 minutes
• Servings: 6-8
• Yield: A generous stew
• Dietary Type: Dairy-Free (if using oil instead of butter for sautéing lamb and for the sumac sauce)

Ingredients

This stew is a beautiful tapestry of flavors and textures, where tender lamb melds with soft eggplant and sweet peppers, all brightened by the unique tang of sumac.

• 3 tablespoons ground sumac
• 16 ounces boiling water (Note: If using fresh tomatoes, you will need less water, approximately 10.5 ounces. The original recipe implies using sun-dried tomatoes primarily, with an option for fresh or canned.)
• 1 tablespoon butter (for sautéing lamb)
• 2 ¼ lbs lamb, cut into cubes (it’s best to have the lamb at room temperature before cooking)
• 2 ½ teaspoons salt, divided
• 1 ½ teaspoons ground black pepper, divided
• 3 medium eggplants
• 3 medium red bell peppers (or 2 large)
• 1 lb sun-dried tomato (or fresh or canned tomatoes; the original recipe mentions using some of both)
• 1 teaspoon red chili pepper flakes
• 2 tablespoons flour
• 6 tablespoons butter, chilled and cut into cubes (for finishing the stew)
• 4 garlic cloves, finely crushed (for serving)

Equipment Needed

• A heavy-bottomed pot or casserole dish (a 5.5-quart cast-iron pot is ideal, as it distributes heat evenly and can handle the two-batch lamb cooking if necessary)
• A separate bowl for mixing vegetables
• A whisk
• A ladle for serving

Instructions

Embarking on the creation of Meftuna Bacanan is a journey that rewards patience and attention to detail. Each step contributes to the depth and complexity of this remarkable dish.

1. Begin by preparing the sumac infusion. Place the ground sumac in a pot and carefully pour the boiling water over it. Set this aside for at least 15-20 minutes. This will allow the sumac to release its vibrant color and distinctive tangy flavor into the water, transforming it into a beautiful pink liquid.

2. Prepare the lamb for searing. Season the lamb cubes with 1.5 teaspoons of salt and 1 teaspoon of ground black pepper. If your lamb is cold, allow it to come to room temperature for about 30 minutes before cooking. This ensures more even searing.

3. In your heavy-bottomed pan or casserole dish, melt the 1 tablespoon of butter over medium-high heat. Add the seasoned lamb cubes. Sear the lamb on a high heat for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until it is nicely browned on all sides. Given the quantity of lamb, you may find it necessary to cook it in two batches to avoid overcrowding the pan, which would steam the meat rather than brown it. Remove the browned lamb from the pan and set it aside.

4. While the lamb is browning, prepare your vegetables. Partially peel the eggplants by making diagonal strips, leaving some of the skin on for texture and visual appeal. Then, de-seed the peppers. Cut both the eggplants and red bell peppers into large chunks. Roughly chop the sun-dried tomatoes (or prepare your fresh/canned tomatoes as needed).

5. In a separate bowl, combine the cut eggplants, red bell peppers, and chopped sun-dried tomatoes. Sprinkle over the remaining salt, ground black pepper, and the red chili pepper flakes. Mix everything together thoroughly to ensure the seasonings are evenly distributed amongst the vegetables.

6. Return to the sumac liquid. Add the 2 tablespoons of flour to the pot containing the sumac-infused water. Whisk this together very well, ensuring there are absolutely no lumps of flour. This mixture will act as a thickening agent for the stew.

7. Add the prepared vegetables to the same pot where the lamb was browned. Gently press them down into the pan, creating a relatively even layer.

8. Pour the sumac-water and flour mixture over the vegetables. The liquid should just cover the vegetables; if it seems a bit scant, add a little more water if needed. Finally, scatter the 6 tablespoons of chilled, cubed butter evenly over the top of the vegetables.

9. Place the lid on the pot. Reduce the heat to very low – the smallest burner on your stovetop is ideal for a gentle simmer. Let the stew simmer for 1 hour. It’s crucial to resist the urge to lift the lid during this hour. This allows the steam to circulate, tenderizing the lamb and vegetables without losing moisture.

10. After the hour of simmering, turn off the heat. Allow the stew to rest for at least 15 minutes with the lid still on. This resting period is vital for the flavors to meld and for the stew to reach its optimal texture.

11. To serve, ladle the Meftuna Bacanan into individual bowls. For each serving, add about a quarter teaspoon of finely crushed garlic. The most delicious way to incorporate the garlic is to stir it directly into the hot stew in your bowl. The residual heat will gently cook the garlic, mellowing its pungency and infusing the stew with its aromatic essence, further enhancing the melting quality of the eggplant.

Expert Tips & Tricks

• Lamb Selection: For the best flavor and tenderness, opt for cuts like lamb shoulder or leg, which benefit from slow cooking. Ensure the lamb is at room temperature before searing to achieve a superior brown crust.
• Eggplant Prep: While the recipe calls for partial peeling, if you find your eggplants are particularly bitter, you can salt them for about 30 minutes after cutting, then rinse and pat them dry before adding to the stew. This is less common with modern eggplants but can be a useful technique.
• Sumac Intensity: The quality of sumac can vary. If your sumac is very potent, you might want to taste the sumac water before adding it to the stew to gauge its strength.
• Tomato Texture: If using fresh or canned tomatoes, ensure they are ripe and flavorful. Dicing them finely will help them integrate seamlessly into the stew. Sun-dried tomatoes, especially oil-packed ones, lend a concentrated umami depth.
• Butter’s Role: The chilled butter cubes added at the end are not just for richness; they help to emulsify the sauce, giving it a beautiful, velvety finish without the need for cream.
• Low and Slow: The success of this stew hinges on the very low simmer. This gentle cooking method allows the lamb to become incredibly tender and the vegetables to soften beautifully without becoming mushy. Patience here is key.

Serving & Storage Suggestions

Meftuna Bacanan is a hearty and satisfying dish that shines on its own. It’s traditionally served with crusty bread to soak up every last drop of the flavorful broth. A simple green salad with a light vinaigrette can offer a refreshing contrast.

Storage: Leftovers can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3-4 days. The flavors often deepen and improve overnight. Reheat gently on the stovetop over low heat, or in a microwave, until heated through. Avoid boiling vigorously to maintain the tender texture of the lamb and vegetables. This stew does not typically freeze well due to the texture of the eggplant.

Nutritional Information

Here is an estimated nutritional breakdown for a serving of Kurdish Lamb & Eggplant Stew With Sumac:

Nutrient	Amount per Serving	% Daily Value
Calories	667 kcal
Calories from Fat	300 kcal
Total Fat	33.4 g	51%
Saturated Fat	15.9 g	79%
Cholesterol	125.6 mg	41%
Sodium	2758 mg	114%
Total Carbohydrate	64.7 g	21%
Dietary Fiber	20.3 g	81%
Sugars	37.5 g	149%
Protein	38.6 g	77%

Note: Nutritional values are estimates and can vary based on specific ingredients used, particularly the type of tomatoes and the fat content of the lamb.

Variations & Substitutions

• Vegetarian/Vegan Option: While this recipe is written for lamb, a hearty vegetarian version can be achieved by substituting firm tofu, large chunks of mushrooms (like portobello or shiitake), or even chickpeas for the lamb. Ensure to adjust cooking times accordingly, as these ingredients won’t require the same long braising as lamb. For a vegan version, use olive oil or a plant-based butter substitute for sautéing the initial aromatics and omit the final butter cubes, or use a vegan butter alternative.
• Spice Level: The red chili pepper flakes offer a gentle warmth. For a spicier stew, increase the amount of chili flakes or add a pinch of cayenne pepper.
• Herbaceous Notes: While not traditional, a few sprigs of fresh rosemary or thyme added during the simmering process can complement the lamb beautifully. Remove them before serving.
• Acidity Balance: If your tomatoes are particularly acidic, a tiny pinch of sugar added towards the end of cooking can help balance the flavors.

FAQs

Q: What is the role of sumac in this dish?
A: Sumac provides a unique, bright, lemony tang that cuts through the richness of the lamb and eggplant, adding a distinctive Middle Eastern flavor profile.

Q: Why is the lamb cooked in batches?
A: Cooking the lamb in batches ensures that each piece is properly browned rather than steamed. This browning develops complex flavors through the Maillard reaction, which is crucial for a deeply savory stew.

Q: Can I use dried eggplants or bell peppers?
A: While possible, using fresh vegetables is highly recommended for the best texture and flavor in this stew. Dried versions would require significant rehydration and may not achieve the desired melt-in-your-mouth quality.

Q: How do I know when the stew is cooked?
A: The lamb should be fork-tender, and the eggplant and peppers should be very soft and beginning to break down, creating a thick, rich sauce.

Q: Is it essential to add the garlic at the end?
A: Yes, stirring the crushed garlic into the hot stew just before serving allows its flavor to infuse without becoming harsh or burnt, providing a fresh, aromatic finish.

Final Thoughts

Meftuna Bacanan is more than just a stew; it’s an experience. It’s a testament to how simple, quality ingredients, combined with time-honored techniques, can yield something truly extraordinary. The earthy depth of the lamb, the creamy surrender of the eggplant, the subtle sweetness of the peppers, all singing in harmony with the assertive, rosy tang of sumac – it’s a symphony of flavors that lingers long after the last bite. I encourage you to embrace this dish, to let its warmth fill your kitchen and its unique taste transport you. Serve it proudly, share it with loved ones, and savor the delicious journey it offers.