Rfissa: A Moroccan Celebration of Chicken, Lentils, and Fragrant M’semmen

There are some dishes that transcend mere sustenance, becoming edible heirlooms, woven into the fabric of family and tradition. Rfissa is one such dish for me. I first encountered its vibrant tapestry of flavors and textures in a bustling Moroccan kitchen, the air thick with the intoxicating perfume of spices. It wasn’t just a meal; it was an event, a communal gathering where laughter mingled with the clatter of spoons against a shared platter. The process, though undoubtedly labor-intensive, felt like a ritual, a slow unfurling of culinary love passed down through generations. The memory of scooping up tender chicken, toothsome lentils, and those delicate, layered m’semmen pancakes with my right hand, surrounded by loved ones, is etched into my culinary soul.

Recipe Overview

• Prep Time: 2 hours (includes marinating time)
• Cook Time: 1 hour 30 minutes
• Total Time: 3 hours 30 minutes (includes marinating and resting)
• Servings: 6-8
• Yield: 1 large communal platter
• Dietary Type: Contains Gluten, Poultry; can be adapted for dairy-free by omitting Smen

Ingredients

For the Chicken & Marinade:

• 2-3 lb whole chickens, washed and cut into serving pieces
• 1 large onion, grated
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 1/2 tablespoon ground ginger
• 1/2 tablespoon ras el hanout spice mix
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper

For the M’semmen:

• 5 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 2 teaspoons sugar
• 2 cups lukewarm water (approximately, may vary)
• Oil, for greasing and stretching

For the Sauce & Lentils:

• 5 cups water, divided
• 1 1/2 large onions, cut into thin strips
• 1/2 tablespoon ground ginger
• 1/2 tablespoon ras el hanout spice mix
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon black pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon turmeric
• 1 pinch saffron threads
• 1 bunch fresh parsley, tied together with kitchen twine
• 1/4 cup canola oil
• 2-3 tablespoons smen (Moroccan fermented butter; can be purchased online)
• 1 tablespoon fenugreek seeds (not ground)
• 1 cup dry brown or green lentils, rinsed

Equipment Needed

• Large bowl(s) for marinating and mixing dough
• Pizza pan or large flat surface for stretching m’semmen
• Large frying pan or griddle for cooking m’semmen
• 8 or 10-quart pressure cooker (or a large, heavy-bottomed pot)
• Couscoussier or steamer basket
• Large, deep serving platter

Instructions

1. Marinate the Chicken: Begin by thoroughly washing your chicken pieces. In a large bowl, combine the grated onion, olive oil, ginger, ras el hanout, salt, and black pepper. Add the chicken pieces to this mixture, ensuring they are well-coated. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or preferably overnight, to allow the flavors to meld.

2. Prepare the M’semmen Dough: While the chicken marinates, start on the m’semmen, as this component requires the most time. In a large mixing bowl, combine 2 1/2 cups of the unbleached flour, 1 teaspoon of salt, and 1 teaspoon of sugar. Gradually add lukewarm water, a little at a time, mixing until a stiff dough forms. The exact amount of water will depend on your flour and humidity, so aim for a dough that is firm but pliable. If it becomes too sticky, add a touch more flour; if too dry, a little more water.

3. Knead the Dough: Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for about 5 minutes. You’re looking for a smooth, elastic texture. Once smooth, divide the dough into 12-15 golf ball-sized portions.

4. Rest and Oil the M’semmen Dough Balls: Pour about 1 tablespoon of oil onto a large pizza pan or clean, flat surface. Gently roll each dough ball in the oil, ensuring it’s lightly coated. Place the oiled balls back into the mixing bowl, cover with a damp cloth, and let them rest for about 15-20 minutes. This resting period is crucial for making the dough easier to stretch.

5. Stretch and Cook the M’semmen (Requires a Partner!): This is where a second pair of hands truly makes a difference.

   • Person 1 (Stretcher): Ensure your hands and the pizza pan (or work surface) are well-oiled. Take one rested dough ball. Using your oiled fingertips, gently spread and stretch the dough outwards in all directions. The goal is to create a very thin, almost translucent layer, like paper, without tearing it. Continue to stretch until you have a large, thin square or circle.
   • Person 2 (Cook): While Person 1 is stretching, lightly drizzle a small amount of oil in a large frying pan or on a griddle using your fingertips. Heat the pan over medium heat until it is hot. Carefully lay the stretched dough sheet into the hot pan. Cook for about 1-2 minutes per side, until it develops golden-brown spots.
   • Repeat: Continue this process, with one person stretching and the other cooking, until all the dough balls are transformed into m’semmen. Place the cooked m’semmen on a plate as you go.

6. Brown the Chicken and Start the Sauce: In an 8 or 10-quart pressure cooker (or a large, heavy-bottomed pot), add 4 cups of water. Add the onion strips, the tied bunch of parsley, ginger, ras el hanout, salt, black pepper, turmeric, and saffron threads. Add the canola oil and the marinated chicken pieces.

   • If using a pressure cooker: Bring to a simmer, uncovered, over medium heat for 10 minutes. Then, carefully turn the chicken pieces over and simmer, uncovered, for another 10 minutes.
   • If using a regular pot: Bring to a simmer, uncovered, over medium heat, and simmer for about 20 minutes, turning the chicken halfway through.

7. Make the Second Batch of M’semmen: While the chicken is simmering, repeat steps 2-5 to prepare a second batch of m’semmen. This ensures you have plenty for the Rfissa. You should aim for a total of approximately 25 m’semmen sheets.

8. Finish Cooking the Chicken and Add Lentils:

   • If using a pressure cooker: After the chicken has simmered uncovered for a total of 20 minutes, add the rinsed lentils, smen, and fenugreek seeds to the pot, along with 1 additional cup of water. Ensure the chicken is breast-side down. Seal the lid and cook under pressure for 10-15 minutes after it begins to hiss. The chicken and lentils should be tender.
   • If using a regular pot: After the initial simmering, add the rinsed lentils, smen, and fenugreek seeds to the pot, along with 1 additional cup of water. Simmer, covered, for approximately 30-40 minutes, or until the chicken is tender and the lentils are cooked through.

9. Steam the M’semmen: While the chicken and lentils finish cooking, take all your prepared m’semmen sheets and shred them into 1-inch pieces. Place these shredded pieces in the top part of a couscoussier or steamer basket. Steam them over the simmering chicken and lentil pot (if using a pot) or another pot of boiling water until they are limp and warm, about 5-10 minutes.

10. Assemble the Rfissa: To serve, scatter a thin layer of the steamed shredded m’semmen on the bottom of a large, deep serving platter. Place the cooked chicken pieces in the center of the platter. Artfully arrange the remaining shredded m’semmen around the chicken. Ladle a generous amount of the lentils and sauce over the chicken and m’semmen. Be sure to incorporate plenty of the cooked onions and parsley. Reserve any extra sauce in a separate bowl to be offered at the table for guests to ladle more as they eat.

Expert Tips & Tricks

• The Smen Secret: Smen is key to that authentic, pungent Moroccan flavor. If you can’t find it online, a good quality unsalted butter can be used, though the unique fermented note will be absent.
• M’semmen Mastery: Don’t be discouraged if your first few m’semmen aren’t perfectly round or thin. The practice of stretching is crucial. Having one person dedicated to stretching and another to cooking is ideal. Keep the dough well-oiled at all stages.
• Lentil Consistency: If you prefer a thicker sauce, you can mash some of the cooked lentils against the side of the pot. For a thinner sauce, add a little more water during the final simmering stage.
• Make-Ahead Potential: The chicken can be marinated a day in advance. The m’semmen can also be made a few hours ahead and briefly reheated in the steamer just before serving. The sauce can be prepared up to the point of adding the lentils and chicken, then finished closer to serving.

Serving & Storage Suggestions

Rfissa is traditionally served family-style, placed in the center of the table, and eaten communally with the right hand. It’s a dish meant for sharing and lively conversation. Store any leftovers in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. To reheat, gently warm the m’semmen and chicken with the sauce on the stovetop over low heat or in a covered dish in the oven at 300°F (150°C) until heated through.

Nutritional Information

Here’s an estimated nutritional breakdown per serving, assuming 8 servings:

Nutrient	Amount per Serving	% Daily Value
Calories	901.1 kcal
Total Fat	35.2 g	54%
Saturated Fat	6.6 g	32%
Cholesterol	71.3 mg	23%
Sodium	1437 mg	59%
Total Carbohydrate	107.5 g	35%
Dietary Fiber	14.1 g	56%
Sugars	4.5 g	18%
Protein	36.9 g	73%

Note: Nutritional values are estimates and can vary based on specific ingredients and portion sizes.

Variations & Substitutions

• Vegetarian Rfissa: For a vegetarian version, omit the chicken and double the quantity of lentils and vegetables like carrots, zucchini, and sweet potatoes. Use vegetable broth instead of chicken for simmering.
• Spicier Rfissa: Add a pinch of cayenne pepper or a finely chopped fresh chili pepper to the sauce for an extra kick.
• Herbal Infusion: Experiment with adding other fresh herbs like cilantro or a sprig of thyme to the sauce for a different aromatic profile.

FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

Q: What is Smen and where can I find it?
A: Smen is a traditional Moroccan fermented butter with a pungent, unique flavor. It can be purchased online from specialty food retailers or Moroccan markets.

Q: Why is the m’semmen so important to this dish?
A: The m’semmen, when shredded and steamed, acts as the base and vehicle for the rich chicken and lentil stew, absorbing all the delicious flavors and providing a satisfying texture.

Q: Can I make the m’semmen ahead of time?
A: Yes, you can prepare the m’semmen a few hours in advance. Store them stacked with parchment paper in between, and gently re-steam them before serving to refresh their texture.

Q: How do I know when the lentils are cooked?
A: The lentils should be tender but not mushy, easily mashed with a fork. They should have absorbed most of the liquid in the pot.

Q: Is it essential to eat Rfissa with my hands?
A: While traditionally eaten with the right hand as a communal experience, using a fork and knife is perfectly acceptable if you prefer. The spirit of sharing the dish remains.

Final Thoughts

Rfissa is more than just a recipe; it’s an invitation to slow down, to connect with the heart of Moroccan cuisine, and to create lasting memories around the table. The layers of flavor, from the deeply spiced chicken to the earthy lentils and the delicately crisp-then-tender m’semmen, build into a symphony of taste and texture. Don’t shy away from the process; embrace it as a labor of love. Serve it with a simple side of a fresh green salad dressed with lemon and olive oil, and perhaps a glass of sweet mint tea to complete the authentic experience. I encourage you to gather your loved ones, roll up your sleeves, and embark on the delicious journey that is Rfissa. Your feedback and culinary adventures with this dish will be most welcome!