Rullapylsa: A Taste of Icelandic Tradition and Culinary Resilience

The scent of simmering spices and slow-cooked meat evokes a sense of comfort and history for me, a feeling deeply rooted in the time I spent poring over aged cookbooks. One such treasure, a fundraiser compilation for breast cancer research titled “Breast Wishes,” introduced me to the wonderfully unpretentious yet deeply flavorful world of Icelandic cuisine. Rullapylsa, a rolled and brined beef roast, captured my imagination not just for its unique preparation but for the story it told of resourcefulness and preserving culinary heritage. It’s a dish that speaks of patience, of embracing simple, wholesome ingredients, and of the enduring power of traditional cooking to connect us to the past and to each other.

Recipe Overview

• Prep Time: 1 week (brining)
• Cook Time: 2.5 hours
• Total Time: 1 week, 2.5 hours
• Servings: 12
• Yield: 1 rullapylsa
• Dietary Type: Adaptable (typically not vegetarian)

Ingredients

The magic of Rullapylsa lies in its simplicity, where a few key ingredients transform a humble cut of beef into something extraordinary. The brining process is crucial, infusing the meat with flavor and tenderness.

For the Rullapylsa:

• 3 lbs beef flank steak, trimmed
• 2 tablespoons salt
• 1/4 teaspoon saltpeter (this is key for color and preservation, often found in specialty stores)
• 1 teaspoon allspice
• 1/2 teaspoon pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon clove
• 1 large onion, finely chopped

For the Brine:

• 4 liters water
• 2 cups salt
• 1 cup brown sugar
• 2 teaspoons saltpeter

Equipment Needed

• Large stock pot
• Fine mesh netting or cheesecloth
• Large container or bowl for brining (large enough to fully submerge the meat)
• Plate or weight to keep the meat submerged
• Pot for boiling the rullapylsa
• Sharp knife
• Cutting board

Instructions

Crafting Rullapylsa is a journey of patience, with the brining process being the true heart of this dish. Follow these steps carefully to achieve a succulent and flavorful result.

1. Prepare the Brine: In a large stock pot, combine the 4 liters of water, 2 cups of salt, 1 cup of brown sugar, and 2 teaspoons of saltpeter. Boil these brine ingredients for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally to ensure the salt and sugar dissolve completely. Once the boiling time is complete, remove the pot from the heat and allow the brine to cool completely. This cooling process is critical, as you will be submerging raw meat into it.

2. Prepare the Meat and Seasonings: While the brine is cooling, trim any excess fat from the 3 lbs of beef flank steak. In a small bowl, mix together the 2 tablespoons of salt, 1/4 teaspoon of saltpeter, 1 teaspoon of allspice, 1/2 teaspoon of pepper, and 1/2 teaspoon of clove. Add the 1 large onion, finely chopped, to this spice mixture and stir to combine.

3. Season and Roll the Meat: Spread the seasoned onion and spice mixture evenly over the surface of the trimmed beef flank steak. Once the meat is seasoned, roll it up tightly, much like you would a jelly roll. Aim for a firm, compact roll.

4. Netting and Brining: Place the tightly rolled beef into fine mesh netting or wrap it securely in cheesecloth. This netting will help the roll maintain its shape during the brining and cooking processes. Carefully place the netted roll into the cooled brine. Ensure the meat is fully submerged in the brine. Place a plate or a suitable weight over the meat to keep it fully submerged, ensuring it remains covered by the brine. Store this in a cool place, such as a refrigerator or a very cool pantry, for 1 week. This extended brining period is essential for developing the characteristic flavor and texture of Rullapylsa.

5. Cook the Rullapylsa: After the week-long brining period, remove the rullapylsa from the brine. Discard the brine. Place the rullapylsa in a clean pot and cover it with fresh water. Bring the water to a gentle boil over medium heat. Once boiling, reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 2 to 2 1/2 hours. The exact cooking time will depend on the thickness of your roll. The goal is to cook the meat through while keeping it tender.

6. Cool and Refrigerate: Once the rullapylsa has cooked for the allotted time, remove it from the cooking liquid. Allow it to cool completely. Once cooled, refrigerate it. Chilling the rullapylsa will allow it to firm up, making it easier to slice and serve.

7. Serving: Rullapylsa is traditionally enjoyed sliced thinly and served with fresh brown bread.

Expert Tips & Tricks

• Saltpeter is Key: Don’t be alarmed by the mention of saltpeter. In small, culinary-grade quantities, it’s traditionally used in brining and curing to help preserve the meat and maintain its pinkish hue, giving it that classic deli-style appearance. If you cannot find it, your rullapylsa will still be delicious, but it may have a slightly different color.
• Submerging is Crucial: Ensure your rullapylsa remains fully submerged in the brine for the entire week. If the brine level drops, you can top it up with a little more water and salt (a ratio of 1 cup salt to 4 liters water should suffice for topping up).
• Gentle Simmer: Resist the urge to boil the rullapylsa vigorously after brining. A gentle simmer ensures the meat cooks evenly and remains tender, preventing it from becoming tough or dry.
• Cooling for Slicing: Allowing the rullapylsa to cool completely and then refrigerating it overnight (if possible) will make it much firmer and easier to slice into thin, presentable pieces.

Serving & Storage Suggestions

Rullapylsa is a wonderfully versatile dish. Its cooked and chilled nature makes it perfect for sandwiches, platters, or as a standalone protein.

• Serving: Slice the chilled rullapylsa thinly against the grain. It is traditionally served with fresh brown bread, acting as a hearty and flavorful filling or accompaniment. It also pairs beautifully with mustard, pickles, and a simple green salad for a light yet satisfying meal.
• Storage: Store any leftover rullapylsa tightly wrapped in plastic wrap or in an airtight container in the refrigerator. It will keep well for 3-4 days. It can also be frozen, though the texture might be slightly altered upon thawing. If freezing, slice the rullapylsa first, wrap portions tightly, and store in a freezer-safe bag or container for up to 2-3 months. Thaw frozen rullapylsa in the refrigerator before serving.

Nutritional Information

Disclaimer: Nutritional values are estimates and can vary based on ingredients and preparation methods.

Nutrient	Amount per Serving	% Daily Value
Calories	304.3 kcal	N/A
Calories from Fat	N/A	16%
Total Fat	10.6 g	16%
Saturated Fat	4.4 g	21%
Cholesterol	57.8 mg	19%
Sodium	20099.5 mg	837%
Total Carbohydrate	19.3 g	6%
Dietary Fiber	0.3 g	1%
Sugars	18.2 g	72%
Protein	31.4 g	62%

Note: The high sodium content is typical for cured and brined meats.

Variations & Substitutions

While the traditional Rullapylsa is a testament to its specific preparation, here are a few ideas if you wish to explore:

• Spices: Feel free to experiment with other warming spices like a pinch of nutmeg or a small amount of mace. However, be mindful not to overpower the delicate balance of the original recipe.
• Onion: If finely chopped onion is too potent for your liking, you can mince it very finely or even grate it to distribute its flavor more evenly.
• Meat Cut: While flank steak is ideal for rolling, a well-trimmed beef brisket or even a similar cut of pork could be used, though cooking times and rolling techniques might need slight adjustments.

FAQs

Q: How long should I brine the Rullapylsa?
A: The Rullapylsa requires a substantial 1 week of brining to properly infuse the meat with flavor and cure it.

Q: Why is saltpeter used in the recipe?
A: Saltpeter is a traditional ingredient in brining and curing meats. It helps to preserve the meat, prevent spoilage, and maintain its characteristic pinkish color, giving it a more appealing visual finish.

Q: Can I skip the netting?
A: While it’s possible to attempt rolling without netting, using fine mesh netting or cheesecloth is highly recommended. It ensures the roll stays tightly bound during the long brining and cooking process, preventing it from unraveling.

Q: What’s the best way to tell if the Rullapylsa is cooked through?
A: The Rullapylsa is cooked when it has simmered gently for 2 to 2 1/2 hours. You can check for doneness by inserting an instant-read thermometer into the thickest part of the roll; it should register around 160°F (71°C).

Q: How should Rullapylsa be served?
A: Rullapylsa is best served cold, sliced thinly. It’s traditionally paired with fresh brown bread, making for delicious sandwiches or a hearty component of a cold meat platter.

Final Thoughts

Rullapylsa is more than just a recipe; it’s an invitation to slow down, to embrace the rewarding process of traditional preservation, and to savor the deep, satisfying flavors that only time and care can create. This Icelandic classic, born from a desire to make the most of humble ingredients, offers a truly unique culinary experience. I encourage you to embark on this flavorful journey, to feel the connection to a culinary heritage that values patience and delicious results. Serve it with pride, share it with loved ones, and let the story of Rullapylsa unfold on your table.